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Knowing when to pot on chilli seedlings is not an exact science. I like to repot the chilli seedlings when they have developed their first true set of leaves like the seedlings pictured below.

My favourite method of planting chilli seedlings is to use module trays. This makes transplanting and potting on the seedlings much easier once they reach the appropriate size. This minimises any risk of damaging the root balls of the seedlings.

I raised the chilli seedlings pictured below on a south facing window sill. I planted the seed on the 24th February – germination took approximately 2 weeks.  Because I wasn’t using any artificial lights or growing these in a greenhouse the seedlings became a little leggy. This isn’t a big issue as when potting them on I like to pot them a little bit deeper in the soil. The photo below was taken roughly 1 month after sowing the seeds.

when to repot chilli seedlings

At the above stage I will typically pot the seedlings on in to pots about 3″ in diameter. By using module trays you can simply apply some pressure under the module and pop out the seedling along with the whole rootball ready for transplanting to the next pot. Next simply fill the remainder of the pot with some fresh compost and water them in to ensure the fresh compost gets in good contact with the seedlings roots.

Potting on Chillies

Knowing when to repot chilli seedlings is only half the battle. For the best success you need to provide them with sufficient light and heat. If your seedlings are leggy like the ones in the photo above it is a sure sign that the plants need some more light. In the case of the above plants. I moved them out to the greenhouse after potting them on to ensure they got a lot more light.

potted on chilli plant

The Aji Lemon plant above appeared in the first photo above, approximately two months after being pricked out. I initially potted it into a 3″ pot before moving it up to it’s current 5″ pot.

Since I moved the plant to the greenhouse it has become more bushy. You can see more lateral shoots coming out between the main stem and the leave nodes. This is always a good sign the plant has enough light.

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Freezing curry leaves is by far the best way of preserving them. Using the leaves dry tends to lose some of that delicate, aromatic fragrance that fresh curry leaves have. My preference is to freeze some whenever I have a supply of fresh curry leaves.

How to Freeze Fresh Curry Leaves

  • Remove the leaves form the stalks
  • Discard any spoilt leaves
  • Wash thoroughly under cold water
  • Spread the leaves out on some kitchen roll to dry
  • Once dry simply place in a zip lock bag in the freezer

It is important to use a zip lock freezer bag to store the leaves in. Without a bag the leaves are prone to drying out and losing long term flavour.

To use frozen curry leaves simply remove as many as you need from the freezer and add to the pan. There is no need to defrost the leaves first.

How Else to Preserve Curry Leaves

The other common way to preserve curry leaves is to dry them. This can be done either in a food dehydrator or by simply spreading the fresh leaves out on a large tray and leaving the to dry in a warm room with good airflow. When the leaves are crisp and break instead of bending they are ready. Store them in an airtight container and they should last over a year.

While dried curry leaves are argably more convenient to store and use, I much prefer feezing them. I find frozen curry leaves is much better at preserving the fresh aromatic flavours.

Can you grow your own curry leaves?

Here in the UK I have had mixed success in the past when it comes to taking cuttings from fresh curry leaves that have been bought from the local Indian supermarket. A few cuttings that I have made in the past have taken however the plants have never really prospered.

Much more successful was buying a small plant from a UK supplier. The small plant arrived in the post in the depths of last winter and now spring is here it as started to put on some good growth!

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We’ve talked before on the site about the different ways to make compost and covered the basics of how to compost properly.

Over the last few months we’ve received a few emails from readers asking how to make great compost with a dalek composter. Well after a few failures, over the last couple of years I’ve been perfecting the art of making compost with plastic dalek compost bins. Below I’ll share the key things I did that enabled me to make perfect compost with a dalek.

Tips to Compost with Daleks-2

Shred Material Before Adding

Size does matter. If you want to give your compost a big headstart then you’ll need to ensure the material you add to your bin is as small as possible. While fruit peelings, soft prunings and other ‘wet’ ingredients tend to break down very quickly meaning size is less important. However larger woody ingrediants like twigs can take many years to decompose. The smaller you can get your ingredients at the start the quicker your compost will take to make.

A couple of years ago I was given an electric garden shredder (like this) and it has transformed the speed with which my dalek churns out great compost. I now put all prunings/cuttings through the shredder before adding it to the compost bins. It only take a few minutes to do but as well as being incredibly satisfying it also shaves months off the composting time.

If you dont have a shredder then try to reduce the size of woody material by snipping it with secateurs or garden shears before adding it to the composter.

Similarly any paper or card I add goes through the old paper shredder in our office first. Any vegetable scraps/peelings are chopped into small pieces before they’re added to the compost caddy in the kitchen.

To Much Green

One of the most common problems people have with their compost heaps is the addition of too much ‘green’ material. If your heap is made primarily of green plant cuttings, grass clippings and vegetable scraps then you’ll almost certainly struggle to make good compost.

The simple solution is to add more ‘brown’ material which is rich in carbon and is essential to speeding up the decomposition process. ‘Browns’ might take the form of shredded woody prunings, cardboard, dried leaves or shredded paper.

The ratio of brown to green doesn’t need to be complicated, as a rough guide I aim for a 50:50 ratio but usually end up with slightly more green. Of course browns tend to be dry so weigh much less than the wet greens. Don’t worry about it all too much.

In order to help get the balance right, whenever I take out the vegetable peelings/scraps from the kitchen I grab a few handfuls of shredded paper from our office. Likewise if I add some grass clippings from the lawn. I’ll be sure to throw in some brown leaves form the mulch pile to keep the balance.

Lack of Moisture

Another common problem with dalek composters is not enough moisture. The organisms that break down your waste need moisture in order to thrive. While the snugly fitting plastic lids do a great job at keeping the heat in your heap, they tend to not let any rain water into the pile. This can lead to a lack of moisture.

The way I diagnosed the problem was the discovery of a colony of ants living in the middle of one of our daleks. Ants avoid moisture and will only take up residence in a sheltered dry environment. If you reach into the middle of the heap, the compost should be ever so slightly damp to touch. It should not be sopping wet and heavy, but not dry and crumbly.

As a general rule if you think your heap is too dry add a watering can of water. Going forward, whenever you add more material (especially dry matter like shredded paper, dry leaves etc) give the heap a good soak with a watering can. When you take a handful of material from the middle of the heap and squeeze it it should feel moist/wet but no drips of water should come out of it.

When you do get the moisture levels right in a dalek composter, the fact that they are plastic and have airtight lids means they do a great job of keeping the moisture level constant going forward.

More Oxygen Required

When using a dalek, getting enough oxygen to the compost can be a challenge. Where a traditional compost pile isn’t airtight and can simply be forked over, a darlek typically requires emptying and reloading…or so I thought.

After some research I discovered compost turners. They are like a giant corkscrew that you simply turn into the center of the pile and lift up which stirs the pile and introduces lots of air to the center of the pile. I try to give each dalek a turn once a week to ensure both an even mix of material as well as a good supply of oxygen throughout.

Compost aerator

Conclusion

So there you have it. Using the above tips my darleks typically turn out quality compost in less than 6 months, often much less. While some gardeners dismiss the effectiveness of daleks for composting, from my experience that’s usually the conclusion when you’re not doing it right.

If you make a few changes like those outlined above there’s no reason your daleks shouldn’t be producing great quality compost. If space is limited their small footprint and portability gives them many advantages of a traditional open compost heap. There’s no reason why you can’t use great homemade compost when putting together your potting medium.

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